Hey guys!
Let’s build a rectangle backdrop out of 1/4″ MDF
Remember, this video is here to serve as inspiration! Take any bits and pieces that will help with your own process, using the tools & materials you have access to. You do not need to use the same tools or same materials! Don’t let that hold you back, get started with what you can!
*There are some affiliate links below and I may receive commissions for purchases made through links in this post, but all of these products are things I highly recommend. I won’t put anything on this page that I haven’t personally used.
Now let’s get into it:
LUMBER
3/4″ birch plywood ripped into 2″ strips (you’ll need 5 strips)
1/4″ MDF (one 4′ x 8′ sheet)
TOOLS
18G Brad Nailer
Miter Saw
Drill & Driver
Orbital Sander
MATERIALS
Wood Glue
1-1/4″ 18G Brad Nails
2-1/2″ Wood Screws
Tape Measurer
Wood Filler
Tear Away Towels
MY GEAR
Glue Dispenser
Safety Goggles
Gloves
Work Boots
Shorts
Shirt
The Process
We start by laying a full sheet of 1/4″ MDF on the workbench.
(If you don’t have a workbench, you can use saw horses!).
If you’ve been meaning to build yourself a workbench, I have a tutorial on my blog that’s perfect for a first project.
Measure the length of the MDF.
Although we purchased a 4′ x 8′ sheet, sometimes stock lumber is a little larger.
For example, our 1/4″ MDF is always 48.5″ x 96.5″.
Now we’re going to add a 2″ strip (“stud”) to the left, right, top, and bottom of the sheet of MDF. We always do the left and right sides first.
The 3/4″ plywood we purchase for our 2″ strips is 96″, but that’s ok. We just leave that 0.5″ gap along the top of the backdrop and it doesn’t cause any problems.
Note: 3/4″ birch plywood is sold at any big box store. You can then rip this into 2″ strips yourself at home using a table saw, track saw, or circular saw with straight guide. Or you can google “lumber yard near me” and call the closest place, ask them if they carry 3/4″ birch plywood, check price, and ask if they’ll “rip the entire sheet into 2″ strips” for you. They usually will! Then it’ll be ready for pick up cut and ready to rock. Otherwise, any big box store sells 2x2x8 boards! We used these when we first started. I personally love using ripped plywood better, but if that’s not easily accessible for you, 2×2 boards work just as good! I would recommend avoiding 2×4 boards – they’re just not necessary for this type of build and will add significant weight.
OK so you’ve got your sheet laid out and your left and right studs ready to go. Attach those bad boys using wood glue and a nail gun with 1-1/4″ brad nails.
We attach the studs flush with the edges of the backdrop. This way we can connect however many walls we need to make an 8×8, 8×12, etc.
Attaching the studs flush to the sides also makes the backdrop appear a little thicker to give it a more professional look.
Now that the left + right studs are in place, measure the area between them on the top and the bottom.
Then cut 2″ studs to fit within that area and attach using wood glue and brad nails.
Now you’ve got a frame fully attached on the back of your backdrop: left, right, top, & bottom.
Next up, we’ll add a stud vertically down the center. This is what will connect to our stand to keep the wall upright.
Note: we use metal pipe & drape stands from Georgia Expo to hold our walls. Essentially, there is a metal base that holds an upright metal pole. We line that pole up with our center stud, and connect them using zip ties. Then we add some weight bags to the metal base. Use NOBLEVIP10 at checkout to receive 10% off your order of $100 or more with Georgia Expo. For a detail tutorial with direct links to the exact products we use for our stands + counterweights, as well as the additional mechanics we add to the back if the backdrop will be outdoors, check out our membership.
If you use another method for your stands, here is where you’ll want to freestyle something that works better for your stands.
Measure the open area between the top and bottom studs, then cut a 2″ stud to match that measurement.
Line that stud in the center of your backdrop and attach using wood glue and brad nails.
(We shoot brad nails from underneath, up into the stud. It’s a bit of a guessing game, lol)
Next, measure the open area between that center stud and the right side of the backdrop.
Cut two studs to match that measurement.
You’ll attach these a little bit higher than the middle (not too low, not too high)
These are what we’re going to attach a handle to.
We often wanted to skip this step when we were new, to save time, but I’m telling you having a handle on the backdrops makes transport sooo much easier, lol
We instantly regretted any walls we skipped the handle when we’re lugging them through the venue.
Measure the open space between these two pieces, and cut any scrap wood you have laying around. We use a scrap 1×2 board for our handles.
We’ve never tried just using a 2″ stud for the handle. I’m not too confident in the strength of 3/4″ plywood for a handle.
If you try it, definitely keep me posted on how it turns out!
We attach the 1×2 handle using wood glue and 2-1/2″ wood screws for extra strength.
This next step I’m not entirely sure it’s necessary, but we always do it out of habit.
We cut (4) pieces of studs with 45* miter angles on each end.
We attach one in each corner using wood glue and brad nails.
This just helps keep the backdrop square and a little less wonky.
Sometimes the wonky can’t be stopped regardless. Wood is just gonna do what it does.
We use a larger sized drill bit and drill (3) holes in the center stud.
Around 12″ from the ground, in the middle, and around 5′ or so tall.
This is how we attach the backdrop to our metal pipe and drape stand with zip ties.
The center stud and the metal stand touch, then we loop a zip tie through each hole & tighten.
You’re in the home stretch my friends, sand her down to avoid splinters when handling.
Flip the backdrop over and add a few more brad nails in the center if you haven’t already.
When we attach the center stud, we can’t access the middle because of the workbench.
So I go back and add a few more nails now that it’s flipped over.
I do the same for the handle area too.
Fill all of the brad nail holes with wood filler.
Then sand all over for a smooth finish.
That is it!
You are finished, my friend
We use 1/4″ MDF for most of our rectangle wall inventory because it is lightweight. We utilize these when something light, like just a sign, is going to be on the wall. If something heavy is going to be hung on the wall or if the wall needs shelves, then we’ll use 1/2″ birch plywood for the backdrop.
1/4″ plywood works for backdrops too, but we found MDF has a much smoother paint finish. Often, even brand new sheets of plywood will show ripples or cracks in the ply once it’s painted & nothing is a bigger bummer than a brand new wall looking rough fresh out of the gate.
1/2″ MDF could also work for backdrops, but it is significantly heavier. We try to keep everything as lightweight as possible. Any MDF from a big box store is going to be hefty. They do sell “ultra-lite” MDF at lumber yards though if you ever want to explore that option!
Standard rectangle backdrops are so versatile and can be huge assets to your inventory. We always keep 8′ and 7′ heights in stock. Check out our instagram page for some inspo of basic rectangles in action with a little spice.
Please note I am by no means a professional. I am sharing what worked for me in my build, in hopes that it serves as inspiration for your build.
