Phase 2: New Subfloor & Interior Walls
If you missed phase 1, check it out right here. That includes the back story on this trailer conversion and completely gutting it so we can start fresh!
Now that we have a blank slate, let’s lay a new subfloor and install the interior the walls.
The 2x boards attached to the actual trailer were still in pretty good shape, so those stayed as-is.
I used OSB Sheathing for my subfloor and attached it directly to those 2x boards.
I measured from the front of the trailer to the back to get the length I need. Then cut the 4×8 sheathing panel down to size using my Kreg Track saw.
Then I needed to make two notches (left and center) to accommodate for the framing on the horse trailer.
I just placed one end of my tape measurer against the wall and extended it out past the center pole. I saw that pole lands around 29” and extends to about 30.75”.
Then I laid the tape measurer out on my sheathing board and marked off 29” – 30.75” so I knew where to cut with my jigsaw. I had also measured that those frames stick out about 2”. So I cut into the sheathing board about 2” x 2” on the left and center to work around those frames.
I attached the subfloor directly to the 2x boards of the trailer using wood screws.
Once the notches were cut, the new subfloor fit right in place.
The first slab covered most of the area, but I did need to cut out two smaller pieces to cover the entire area.
I used the original cut off for these smaller portions so that I would only need to purchase 1 sheet of sheathing for this subfloor.
With the subfloor attached, next up is applying RedGard. This acts as a moisture barrier to waterproof the floor. It applies just like paint, using a regular paint pan and roller. I applied 2 coats total.
Once that dried, I was ready to add in wood studs.
The framing of the horse trailer was the same size as a 2×2, so I didn’t need to mill the boards down at all.
I used self-drilling wood-to-metal screws to attach the studs to the horse trailer.
This was definitely harder than anticipated, haha.
It took a minute to find, but this was the method I found that worked best for me:
Step 1
I predrilled a hole to avoid splitting the 2×2.
Step 2
I held onto the screw with one hand while I drilled it into the stud. This ensured the screw stayed in place while it was grabbing the 2×2. These screws have a flattened tip to secure into the metal, so if you don’t do this step – the screw just flies all over the place when you try to drill LoL.
Last Step
Once I felt the screw hit the metal (it just dead stop, lol) – I would put both hands on my drill and put all my force into the direction as well.
This helped the screw push through the metal frame then it was easy peasy.
Once this method of control was locked in, screwing into the trailer was a breeze (& a great arm workout).
For the vertical studs, I just used regular pocket holes and 2.5″ pocket hole screws.
One of the main things I was advised with this trailer, was to be mindful of weight distribution.
Try to not add all of your heavy things on one side.
Since the bar countertop and cabana top will both be on the left side, I decided to use ¼” plywood for that wall.
I used ½” plywood to add a little weight to the opposing side since not much else was going in over there.
This worked out perfectly since I also wanted to add a herringbone-style pattern to this wall so this gives me a little more material to nail into.
The final wall also got 2×2 studs and a slab of 1/4″ plywood to cover it.
The “U” of the horse trailer
This area was definitely a challenge. I knew it needed to be covered and I wanted it to be usable space.
I stared at that area for about 87 years trying to think of the perfect method to cut out all the nooks & crannies, but finally hit a point where I just said:
ALRIGHT, GOING FOR IT.
I can only stare at something for so long, before it starts crippling progress. So even if it didn’t work, I was gonna go for SOMEthing.
I first used my jig saw to cut out the notches for the trailer frame.
Then I measured the length from the front of the U to the back. I used that length to draw a half circle on my sheet of plywood. Who knows if the circle I was drawing was the same diameter as the U but that’s what I just needed to press forward and find out.
The horse trailer also has 2 windows on either side of the U. Each window has a frame that sticks inward just a bit. So I measured the length of each window frame, and used my jig saw to cut out notches for those frames.
It did not go in without a fight.
But after all those shenanigans were accommodated for, we finally got to
GOOD ENOUGH.
Woo hoo!
A brand new subfloor and interior walls are IN.
Now we get to move on to the fun stuff!
Don’t forget to subscribe to the email list so you don’t miss out on Phase 3: where we build the herringbone-style accent wall and repurpose a kitchen sink into an ice holder!
